This is one thing I'm asked over and over at classes and I thought this would be a good time to post a step by step on how this is done. This is a technique you will use over and over and you will get better at this the more you practice. If you wraps are not perfect the first time - don't fret - just practice. One tip is to use good head pins. I use only sterling silver and copper. The cheeper head pins are harder to bend and do not give a good end result. So lets get started making a bead dangle.
These are the tools you will need. Wire cutters, Crimper tool,
small round nose pliers and chain nose pliers.
Slide your bead onto the head pin.
Place the round nose pliers against the bead at the
middle of the round nose pliers.
Note the position of the pliers.
This is position ONE for the pliers.
Place your thumb to the front of the wire above the pliers
and push away from you making a 45 degree bend.
Rotate the pliers to this position - position TWO.
Your pliers should now be on top of the bend you just made.
Note position of pliers.
Bend wire OVER the top of the top rod of your pliers towards you.
Move the curve you have created to this
position in your pliers. Making sure the pliers
are snug in the bend you just made.
Now wrap the long wire down and across the wire
where it comes out of the bead.
I use a second set of pliers (chain nose)
to hold the wire while wrapping, or you can use your fingers.
Try both methods to see which one works best for you.
Wrap the wire around the area between the loop and the bead
till it will wrap no further - stop.
Using your fine cutters cut the wire
as close to the wrap as you can get.
If there is a little end sticking out use your
crimper tool to complete the rounding of this end of the wire.
Place the wrap into the opening closest
to the jaw of the crimper and make sure
the end wire is on the side with the curve - not the W shape.
Apply slow even pressure to curve the little end against the coil.
Ta Da - the finished wrap.
If your loop isn't straight then use your chain nose to aline it correctly.
The larger the space between the bead and your round nose pliers at the beginning of this technique will determine how many wraps you will end up with. I normally use 3 wraps on my dangles. Now this is ready to add to earrings, bracelets and necklaces. To add a wrapped dangle onto a closed area the wrap will have to be made on the chain or element you wish to add this to. This is a little harder but can be done with a bit of practice.
This is taught in Jewelry 101 along with adding a clasp. You make a pair of earrings and a bracelet in this class.
Changing Metal Colors With A Torch
OK if you are a little skittish to try using a big torch then try out one of these little baby torches for adding some beautiful colors to your metal. This little orange torch is refillable with butane and easy to use. It's not strong enough to melt metals and for that I call in "Big Mama" - you see her soon. Any way this little baby torch is great. It's still VERY HOT so even thou he's little you still need to give him a lot of respect. Here is how I use my little torch.
I got a big old baking sheet and put it on top of the stove. I keep the torch right in front of me pointing slightly to my left and away from me. I keep a bowl of water on the right of the torch. (the side away from the flame)
When it's the perfect color dunk it into the water (quenching).
This softens the metal.
Here is a piece of copper and brass before torching.
After torching.
The copper was just moved threw the flame then quenched.
The brass was kept in the flame till it was totally black.
Then it was cleaned with .00 steel wool
The finished bracelet is on the Jewelry Gallery page.
Adding Your Clasp with a Crimp Tube
One question I get over and over is how to put a crimp bead on a necklace so it's snug to the clasp and has no gap between the clasp and beading. The first thing I want to mention is I only use sterling silver crimp tubes - not the round crimp beads - tubes. Don't scrimp on this and get the cheeper crimp tubes - you'll be sorry. Get the good ones when they are on sale and keep in your stash of supplies.
The second thing is to make sure your crimp tool matches the size of your crimp bead. Yes they do make several sizes of both. The large crimp tubes/crimp tool are for running multiple strands of beading wire threw. The smaller size that I use is for 4 strands of thin wire or 2 of the thicker heaver wire. We'll get into the stringing wires another day.
After you have finished stringing your beads you will add your clasp.
Feed the wire into the crimp tube then your clasp. Run the wire around the clasp hole and back threw the crimp tube and if possible into the first few beads near the crimp tube. Now pull this firmly to get all these sections as close as possible. Don't however pull too tight or your clasp will not be flexible. This is very important if you have the type of clasp that a straight bar feeds into a circle. Now the crimping.
There are 3 areas on the crimping tool you will use.
- The #1 opening is for crushing the tube into a "C" shape. When crushing the crimp tube in all 3 steps use a slow firm pressure. After your make your first crimp and have created the "C" shape remove and place "C" shape into the #2 opening.
- Here you want the "C" shape to stand upright as a letter C would. Again using a slow firm pressure compress the "C" shape till it is folded over and flat. It helps to hold the beaded end firmly with your other hand to keep in the correct position. Remove from crimper.
- Place the flat crimp tube between the end of your crimper (#3 space), and again firmly flatten the tube. At this point it should look like a folded section of metal. This is a very sturdy and permanent closure for your clasp.
Cut off the excess of the flexible wire so it's inside a bead (pull away from bead, cut and release) or cut very near the crimp tube. This wire will be scratchy if it's touching your skin so make sure it's cut close. If needed use a file to remove any sharp point.
Thats all there is to it. Perfect snug crimping.
